First of all, I have to say sorry for only writing my first words after spending already two months in Cameroon. After this short time, I already feel “absorbed” into life in Yaoundé and I didn’t even find the time to travel a lot as I am settling down quite comfortably in the capital of Cameroon. Secondly, I am sorry for my English as I do speak French most of the time and struggle a bit to keep two foreign languages up to date. French is the only uniting language in Cameroon with around 250 local languages being shared mainly by people of the same tribe or the same village community. In Yaoundé, Cameroonians from all parts of the country come together and French is spoken by everyone here. That way, I get a chance to improve my language skills, even though adapting a strong Cameroonian accent. I also got quickly used to the typical African eventualities like eleven days without electricity (didn’t want pay the usual bribe money) or being robbed in front of my doorstep (was “my fault” as I cannot resist to spend the occasional night out and didn’t insist to be accompanied up to my doorstep).
But all in all, my first weeks have passed very smoothly and by regarding the usual precautions like not running around alone at night, there is no need to worry too much about safety issues. On top of that, I am – like 90% of all Whites- renting an apartment in the very posh neighborhood of “Bastos” where most people are living in villas surrounded by fences and guarded by watchmen. Even though it is “recommended” for Whites to live here, I still cannot get used to the fact that a small internship remuneration allows me to live an “upper class” lifestyle without bigger constraints and pay an apartment that costs more than average Cameroonian in Yaoundé earns per month (people in the rural areas are again much poorer). Nevertheless and thanks to my well integrated (German) flat mate Maria, I was so far able to get to know many people outside the typical Bastos “Expat” community (which is how the close circle of foreign people mostly employed at embassies and international aid organizations is called) and also learn many new things about Cameroonian culture and lifestyle.
After this relatively short time, I am already very much enjoying my life here and am happy to have already met many great Cameroonian (and other) people. Even though the everyday interaction with strangers is quite harsh and the general politeness Europeans value a lot does not really play a role, I do appreciate the openness of the people and the importance of the regards for others. My first impression is that less focus is placed on individual interests and that your life in the society is much more important. In line with that, you outer appearance and social reputation is of utmost importance and a great focus is placed on hair, make-up and clothing. Even if we just invite some friends for diner, everyone will show up in well- cleaned shoes, sexy dresses and styled hair (especially the girls change their hair all the time meaning that they either attach new extensions or wear different wigs).
The only thing I definitely have to get used to is the special status that is attached to all Whites. When you talk to Cameroonians, they can hardly believe that poverty also exists in Europe or elsewhere in the “West”. Once I mention that I see more homeless people when I am leaving my flat in Berlin than in Yaoundé, they insist that if that exist those people definitely have to be black. Whites are rich by definition. That is also a reason why you should always be with a Cameroonian or better ask a Cameroonian to go shopping for you as they will naturally increase the price three of four times for white people. One thing I found very strange is that everyone is more than delighted if you mention that you are not French but German. Many Cameroonians explained me that the poverty in the country is due to the French domination and exploitation and that the country would be weigh better off if the German colonizers would have stayed longer. In that sense, national politicians are believed to be only marionettes that cannot change anything.
First and foremost, the president “Paul Biya” enjoys a quite strange popularity as I think. His portrait is present is almost every room –public and private- and the often repeated sentence is “His Excellence, he brought us peace and stability”. Even though it is true that Cameroon –unlike many of its neighbors, Nigeria and Central Africa in particular – has not experienced heavier conflicts for centuries, it is impossible to deny the dysfunction of the political system. Even though I have not seen much extreme poverty here (also due to the fact that the very fertile land allows people to at least plant something for their own use), especially the absence of a judicial system and the widespread existence of corruption are striking. Above all, the military and police officers do not seem to do anything without receiving bribe money. This was especially evident when I was watching the soccer game Cameroon versus Libya and the police and military were next to each other -greatly smiling- collecting money from the people who wanted to climb the fences in order to be able to enter the part with the more expensive seats.
Even though I do not think that corruption is determined by the Cameroonian culture, many things related to money, work and sustaining a living do function completely different here than I am used to. Solidarity, especially among family members and close friends is one of the most important principles. Our Cameroonian friends do not understand at all that my flat mate and I are keeping track of who spends what on food, dividing bills at the end of the month and paying separately in restaurants or bars. If a Cameroonian has some money in his pocket he is going to use it to invite his friends for dinner or pay the school fee of his cousins’ daughter. On the one hand, I think that this is something that can definitely be learned from the Cameroonians and the German parsimony and correctness with money appears ridiculous in the African context. On the other hand, it seems to be almost impossible for Cameroonians to safe money for the future as he or she is expected to use it to help out others like paying the medical treatment of a friend.
In addition to that, the very strong (mostly Christian) belief in God and its importance for the social life is something that distinguishes the Cameroon culture and mentality. If I ask someone how he or she is going to cope for the next two weeks without money, the answer will most definitely be that God will find a solution. If I say that he or she should consider not spending his last money on his friends, the answer will likely be that having love for other human beings is the most important in life. Besides the strong belief in God, I also experienced that most of the Cameroonians (whatever age group or educational status) strongly believe in higher magic or witchcraft. They have assured me many times that “even though they know that we Europeans don’t believe in it, it definitely exists and the spell of an ancestor or discontent relative can ruin your life and that of your family”. Another thing that I find hard to understand as a German (especially after having lived in Berlin before) is the strong rejection of homosexuality (which is “punished” by around 5 years in prison). Even though homosexuality obviously also exists in Cameroon, I have heard many times that this is a disease that has to be cured and hinders the development of the country… Anyway, I just think that you have to be aware that some things do function completely different and that beliefs and convictions are particular from country to country.
Before ending my travel blog, I want to encourage everyone who is considering visiting Cameroon to do so and to let me know when he/she is planning to come. 🙂 I just came back from my first trip around the country, where I was visiting the different project sides of the GIZ, and the green, lush jungle that dominates the landscape is just beautiful. Moreover, one thing I enjoy a lot here is the very fresh, delicious and affordable food. Besides clothing, family and music, food is another substantial and very important element of Cameroonian life.
Anyway, so far a positive update from Cameroon and I hope to keep in touch!! 🙂
Take care.
Fredi
PS. Pictures will follow
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